Dining with History: A Night at Ex Ponto in Travnik

Travnik, the historic heart of central Bosnia, is a town of cobbled streets and Ottoman-era architecture. For travellers with an appetite for both culture and cuisine, Ex Ponto Bar & Restaurant offers an unexpected delight — a place where the legacy of Nobel Prize–winning writer Ivo Andrić meets contemporary gastronomy. We stumbled upon Ex Ponto almost by accident. Our visit had begun with a tour of Andrić’s birthplace — the very house where he was born — spurred by my mother’s recent reading of his works. We stumbled upon Ex Ponto almost by accident. Our visit had begun with a tour of Andrić’s birthplace — the very house where he was born — spurred by my mother’s recent reading of his works. After exploring the house, we noticed a restaurant and bar within the same complex, and decided to return that evening for dinner. That decision proved to be one of the highlights of our short trip to Travnik.

Ex Ponto is a space that balances culture and contemporary style: walls adorned with art prints — some celebrating Andrić, others vibrant, colourful works — complement modern grey chairs, well-laid tables, and soft lighting, creating an inviting and stylish atmosphere. The restaurant doubles as a cultural hub, hosting art exhibitions, literary evenings, and small concerts, making it an exciting hybrid of culture and dining experience.

From the moment we arrived, the service was impeccable. Our waiter, dressed immaculately, carried our main dishes wearing white gloves — something I had never seen before in a restaurant, even after years of dining in London’s best restaurants. The staff’s attention to detail was constant yet unobtrusive: plates arrived promptly, wine glasses were refreshed without asking, and every need was anticipated.

We had one vegetarian in our party, and sometimes in Bosnia that can feel like a challenge in a meat-loving country. Yet Ex Ponto made it easy, offering a menu full of creativity and care. We started with zucchini tagliatelle with zucchini cream, chamomile and goat cheese, a dish both fresh and comforting. From there, we moved on to the seafood dishes: black tagliatelle with bisque and “Grana Padano” ice cream, rich, perfectly balanced, and surprisingly delicate, alongside Gamboro skewers and asparagus risotto, which were equally impressive. Bread was freshly baked, and desserts were indulgent without being overwhelming: warm apple pie with caramel sauce and ice cream, and a warm, crunchy forest fruit cake served with vanilla ice cream. Coffee and wine rounded out the meal perfectly, making it a truly memorable dining experience.

Despite the quality, the meal was very reasonably priced. Our starters, mains, bread, desserts, coffee, wine — the full works — came to around £40 for three, an incredible value considering the ambience, service, and quality of the food.

What makes Ex Ponto exceptional is not just the food, but the sensory and cultural experience. Here, dining is intertwined with the history of Travnik, the legacy of Andrić, and the rhythm of local life. Whether it’s a quiet lunch, a romantic dinner, or a cultural evening, the restaurant encourages you to linger — to savour both the flavours and the stories that surround you. Even if you arrive without knowing the history, as we did, the restaurant leaves an impression.